Angela Missoni is the latest among the ranks this week to both trumpet the season’s theme from the carpeting (here a marbleized scrawl) and to look to interior design for inspiration for her collection for fall 2015. Drawing from the work of Richard Artschwager, Ettore Sottsass, and the Memphis Design Group (this was most evident in the marble-veined onesies worn under metallic tank dresses, asymmetrical body-conscious frocks, or wood-grain patterns on some tuxedo-style jackets), the sense of layering was distinctly eighties in flavor. There were power-shouldered jacquard jackets worn over printed leggings and zip-front bodysuits, the flashes of skin provided by slashed-front knits echoed by leather boots with sole, strategic cutouts above the top of the foot. And if the carpeted catwalk was not entirely in step with the other collections shown this week, the choice of era—a heyday for both Italian fashion and the Memphis Design Group, who premiered to much fanfare at the Salone del Mobile in this very city in 1981—came as naturally to the house as Lurex.
“It’s a playful collection,” Angela Missoni said backstage about her many-layered looks (“KNIT ME UP!” exclaimed the show notes). “It’s mix and match, it’s ultra-feminine, ultra-fun.” And it always is: Missoni has long been the fail-safe for a certain type of young, jet-set-and-go-get-’em type best represented by the designer’s own family, and this collection was no different, relying on bright colors and the sense of ease provided by a good bodysuit. Even if, as is the case this season, that particular garment was done up in tattoo-like marble veins, rather than the house’s trademarked zigzag.